Hey guys I was noticing that every once and awhile someone asks for help in the general section with this or that. And well since Im a general contractor along with Ares, I thought I would offer up my expertise to anyone that has a question about building/renos and general construction problems, ideas, or practices.
General Contractors Help Desk
- Thread starter DarkSiege
- Start date
OG buckshot jr
TD Admin
Actually, I do. It won't be until this spring/summer, but I need to replace and re-seal my bro's bedroom windows and my bedroom window.
If you could, direct me to a good "How-To", and something that explains exactly what's involved (any special tools, lumber/pieces etc)
I love you :)
If you could, direct me to a good "How-To", and something that explains exactly what's involved (any special tools, lumber/pieces etc)
I love you :)
47
TD Admin, Chicken Licker, Top Shelf Sleeper
[quote1266631075=OG buckshot jr]
Actually, I do. It won't be until this spring/summer, but I need to replace and re-seal my bro's bedroom windows and my bedroom window.
If you could, direct me to a good "How-To", and something that explains exactly what's involved (any special tools, lumber/pieces etc)
I love you :)
[/quote1266631075]
youtube. i got instructions on how to do laminate flooring and did it
Actually, I do. It won't be until this spring/summer, but I need to replace and re-seal my bro's bedroom windows and my bedroom window.
If you could, direct me to a good "How-To", and something that explains exactly what's involved (any special tools, lumber/pieces etc)
I love you :)
[/quote1266631075]
youtube. i got instructions on how to do laminate flooring and did it
Ok first off, BS jr, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q46SURotwlI&feature=related, this guy does it the way I do. When your mesuring the window for a replacement, take off the inside trim and measure the inside of the 2x4s or 2x6s that surround your window, thats your ruff stud opening (or RSO). The store or manufacturer will ask for the RSO when you order the replacement. The youtube channel Tim Carter, of http://AsktheBuilder.com has a "Replacing A Window" that shows how to put in a new window. I dont use nails, rather use 3" deck screws and red Tuck Tape goes on the plastic that should be on your inside walls, tape only to the studs not to the window itself, the insolation strips or IMPORTANT! Low Expansion Low Presure foam will stop the weather. Also for keeping your trim nice use vicegrips to pull nails throught the Back of the trim, forcing the nails back out the front makes nasty holes. Oh and dont bite the Tuck Tape to cut it, it comes from Sarnia, chemical capital of ON. Give me a pic or a shout if you need more info.
OG buckshot jr
TD Admin
[quote1266639457=DarkSiege]
Ok first off, BS jr, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q46SURotwlI&feature=related, this guy does it the way I do. When your mesuring the window for a replacement, take off the inside trim and measure the inside of the 2x4s or 2x6s that surround your window, thats your ruff stud opening (or RSO). The store or manufacturer will ask for the RSO when you order the replacement. The youtube channel Tim Carter, of http://AsktheBuilder.com has a "Replacing A Window" that shows how to put in a new window. I dont use nails, rather use 3" deck screws and red Tuck Tape goes on the plastic that should be on your inside walls, tape only to the studs not to the window itself, the insolation strips or IMPORTANT! Low Expansion Low Presure foam will stop the weather. Also for keeping your trim nice use vicegrips to pull nails throught the Back of the trim, forcing the nails back out the front makes nasty holes. Oh and dont bite the Tuck Tape to cut it, it comes from Sarnia, chemical capital of ON. Give me a pic or a shout if you need more info.
[/quote1266639457]
Amazing! I'm not near the job date, which is why I'm gonna take the time to learn as much as I can so I can get the job done properly. I don't care if it takes me days, I just want it to be rock-solid and 100% weatherproof before I re-seal and re-tape the walls around the window(s).
Ok first off, BS jr, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q46SURotwlI&feature=related, this guy does it the way I do. When your mesuring the window for a replacement, take off the inside trim and measure the inside of the 2x4s or 2x6s that surround your window, thats your ruff stud opening (or RSO). The store or manufacturer will ask for the RSO when you order the replacement. The youtube channel Tim Carter, of http://AsktheBuilder.com has a "Replacing A Window" that shows how to put in a new window. I dont use nails, rather use 3" deck screws and red Tuck Tape goes on the plastic that should be on your inside walls, tape only to the studs not to the window itself, the insolation strips or IMPORTANT! Low Expansion Low Presure foam will stop the weather. Also for keeping your trim nice use vicegrips to pull nails throught the Back of the trim, forcing the nails back out the front makes nasty holes. Oh and dont bite the Tuck Tape to cut it, it comes from Sarnia, chemical capital of ON. Give me a pic or a shout if you need more info.
[/quote1266639457]
Amazing! I'm not near the job date, which is why I'm gonna take the time to learn as much as I can so I can get the job done properly. I don't care if it takes me days, I just want it to be rock-solid and 100% weatherproof before I re-seal and re-tape the walls around the window(s).
TD|night blade
TD Admin
Re-doing my bathroom right now, done the leaking shower control unit / sink faucet / painting. What's left is the flooring, about 40 sq ft, where should I get the tiles? what type of tiles? can I handle the job myself, would rather hire someone to do it for $? how much?
Porcelain tiles offer the best look, resale value, and strength for traffic. I just did my kitchen with them, and I have done my shower walls too.
Before you start SCREW down your plywood floor again to the joists below, should be easy to figure where they are underneith. Start at the edge of the plywood, screw where you see nails should be 16" centers along the length of the ply.
Screw every 6" along the joists with 1 3/4 screws.
If you want to have a water tight seal you need to use a rubber membrain, its orange with a honey comb style look. But its expensive, Ive always gone with silicone around the outer perimeter of the floor. If your not going with rubber, then you need 2 layers of plywood, the second makes for a solid base for tiles, If you dont the floor may still move a bit under the tiles and they will come off. I usually put down 1/2" ply, you can go bigger but it will really offset the height where your bath floor meets your hallway. The second layer must also be off center of the first, so your second layer joins must be at least 2' from any of the first layers joins and must fall on the joist as well, screw every 6" with 2 1/2" screws on the joists.
Cutting tiles can be done with a wet tile saw or a diamond tipped grinder blade. Both are noisy and messy, the grinder blades cost less (around $25) where the tile saw is likey a one time use for you and runs around $80 and up.
Use Mega Lite mortar, not Flex Rock, Im having issues with it. Bigger tiles need a 1/4"to 1/2" groove trowel to put down. I find that homedepot or any store like that has good deals on tile.
Stick on tiles are hidious to look at, have no resale value, and are cheap crap.
If you want use vinyl or linoleum, you still need two layers of ply, but the second is 1/4" smooth or good one side. Still screw the hell out of those joists, nobody likea a moving squeaking floor.
Homedepot has rolls of remenants for like $25 its usually 8'x6' or 8'x 12' cheap stuff, pick a roll you dont hate and you have a new floor. End of the roll might have more selection but you will still be paying $1.50 / sq foot atleast for it.
The glue isnt expensive but dont wear anything you like when you put it down cuz its going to get on everything. Ask for a trowel to spread it with.
Hope some of that helps.
Before you start SCREW down your plywood floor again to the joists below, should be easy to figure where they are underneith. Start at the edge of the plywood, screw where you see nails should be 16" centers along the length of the ply.
Screw every 6" along the joists with 1 3/4 screws.
If you want to have a water tight seal you need to use a rubber membrain, its orange with a honey comb style look. But its expensive, Ive always gone with silicone around the outer perimeter of the floor. If your not going with rubber, then you need 2 layers of plywood, the second makes for a solid base for tiles, If you dont the floor may still move a bit under the tiles and they will come off. I usually put down 1/2" ply, you can go bigger but it will really offset the height where your bath floor meets your hallway. The second layer must also be off center of the first, so your second layer joins must be at least 2' from any of the first layers joins and must fall on the joist as well, screw every 6" with 2 1/2" screws on the joists.
Cutting tiles can be done with a wet tile saw or a diamond tipped grinder blade. Both are noisy and messy, the grinder blades cost less (around $25) where the tile saw is likey a one time use for you and runs around $80 and up.
Use Mega Lite mortar, not Flex Rock, Im having issues with it. Bigger tiles need a 1/4"to 1/2" groove trowel to put down. I find that homedepot or any store like that has good deals on tile.
Stick on tiles are hidious to look at, have no resale value, and are cheap crap.
If you want use vinyl or linoleum, you still need two layers of ply, but the second is 1/4" smooth or good one side. Still screw the hell out of those joists, nobody likea a moving squeaking floor.
Homedepot has rolls of remenants for like $25 its usually 8'x6' or 8'x 12' cheap stuff, pick a roll you dont hate and you have a new floor. End of the roll might have more selection but you will still be paying $1.50 / sq foot atleast for it.
The glue isnt expensive but dont wear anything you like when you put it down cuz its going to get on everything. Ask for a trowel to spread it with.
Hope some of that helps.
TD|night blade
TD Admin
Thanks for the help Darksiege.
No problem, id find a youtube video that explains how to place and cut the tiles if your going with them. Theres lots of how to's out there. I think it would help anyone whos doing the work to see a video on how its done first.
I do some plumming, electrical, and tile work on my own, usually just for friends and family other wise I get some of my professional collegues to do the work for my customers.
I do some plumming, electrical, and tile work on my own, usually just for friends and family other wise I get some of my professional collegues to do the work for my customers.
Here ya go Cock, ive never done it before but heres a video on what to use if you want to try it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JG6XtggsPNg&feature=related